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CAP Cast Iron Kettle bell There is no simple answer just some guidelines to help you through the process of buying your first kettle bells.
Ballistic (explosive) lifts: swings, cleans, snatches, tossing, juggling. For ballistic lifts you can use a heavier kettle bell than with slow, grinding movements like get-ups and windmills that must be carefully controlled throughout the entire range of movement and require a smaller bell.
Our experience with kettle bells has boiled it down to the following general recommendations for men and women. All cast iron kettle bells such as the Matrix Elite precision e-coat series change dimensions, including handle diameter, as the weight increases or decreases.
Of course if you are 250 lbs and have been lifting weights all your life, feel free to buy whatever size bell you want to! For controlled, grinding movements like Turkish Get-ups and windmills you should choose a kettle bell that you can easily press overhead about 8-10 times.
Lifting kettle bells will not make you big and bulky and rob you of your feminine curves. On the contrary, with proper training and dedication it will give you the body you've always wanted.
Single Cast Mold With No Seams, Ridges or Rough Spots. A quality kettle bell is cast in a single step into the mold and is finished like a piece of fine furniture.
Competition or “Pro Grade” kettle bells are made to fixed specifications. To find out more about the differences between cast iron and competition kettle bells click here.
Well we could certainly could, like so many of our competitors, and make lots of money doing it too, however there is a very good reason that we do not. If a kettle bell can be improved by new materials or a new engineering insight or manufacturing process so that real users will benefit then we will do so, however, we are not interested in gimmicks that are solely designed to misinform consumers and take their hard-earned money from them.
We have been in the kettle bell business for some years now, and we will not compromise our principles just to make money off innocent, uninformed consumers. Without proper kettle bell lifting technique you will not get the full benefit of the movement and you greatly increase your chance of injury, and this defeats the purpose of training with kettle bells in the first place.
We recommend that whether you are a beginner, intermediate or advanced lifter, that you have a few kettle bells in different weights. Also, the high leverage lifts such as Turkish Get-ups, Windmills and Bottoms-up presses, require less weight especially when you are first learning them so having a range of kettle bell weights will give you the required training flexibility need to progress.
If your budget can handle it then buy at least two kettle bells to start with in different weights and then add to your collection as your form gets better and your conditioning level increases. CrossFit aficionados use this term quite a lot as do many old school kettle bell instructors.
At Kettle bells USA® we prefer kilograms or pounds because we think “Food” is a confusingly weird word! Some other aspects of kettle bell design are grip diameter, grip width, ball diameter, the distance from the top of the ball to the bottom of the handle.
If it were me I'd spot you the 0.25 kg and call it good. In reality, unless you get a competition KB that's “certified” to be a certain weight, all KB's will be off by a bit. PreStrongfirst, Pavel's company advertised its 32 kg as a 70lb bell.
I think @Smile-n-Nod is being more OCD than anal retentive, but I can sympathize with that. Weight discrepancy won't make him an official finisher of Simple.
Dude, don't worry about the weight of your KB. Even the very high quality certified competition bells that they actually use at championships can be off by 10-20g.
If I were you, as a punishment for owning a light kettleblell I would aim for 4:59 for the swings and 9:59 for the GU Okay, that might be a little harsh to @Smile-n-Nod (even though I don't believe it was meant at all maliciously), but that line is so good you have to go for any opportunity to use it. And I agree with everyone that 32 kg and 70lb can be treated as equivalent.
Dude, don't worry about the weight of your KB. I haven't worried about the exact weights of my 24- and 16-kg bells, because there's nothing special about those numbers in SAS.
If I'm ever able to achieve Simple, I'd like the achievement to be real, not a little short. Yeah, I'm a little anal retentive sometimes, but I'm also an engineer, and math nerd, and a bit of a rules' follower. That line is so good you have to go for any opportunity to use it.
The task for someone else is located a set of scales accurate to +/- one ounce at 70 pounds. If you measured it on an accurate scale, I doubt that it would weight out to either 32 kg or 70 pounds.
The difference in weight lifted is less than 1 swing in 100. To go further down the math rabbit hole, if you wanted to make it absolutely equal.
I could see this as being some potential issue where two competitors were competing and both did 125 reps but one used a 32 kg and the other used a 70 pound. The best way to gain efficiency is to swing to only 80% height as the power requirement is significantly less and this is a huge difference when measured over the energy consumption over 100 swings.
As far as the weight goes, 70 pounds vs 32 kg is so negligible you would have a hard time even measuring it. I noticed on the Rogue site that the weight tolerance on their kettle bells is ±3%.
For a 32-kg kettle bell, that variance is ±1 kg or ±2.2 lbs. I guess a 70- lb bell (which is 31.75 kg) fits that range.
I'm not asking you to disclose the brand, but were those cast iron or steel competition bells? Quality is definitely hit or miss. I once used a comp bell where the filler inside had loosened and rattled around when you swung it.